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Castles in the Scottish Borders

It’s a CASTLE but not as we know it, is a statement proved by it’s definition in the Oxford Dictionary.

ie. chateau, citadel, donjon, fastness. fortress, keep, mansion, palace, peel, stronghold, tower.

The one word not used with context to our present use of the word is CAPITAL, as until the Middles Ages (1,000 – 1,500 ad) when most of our castles were built they were the centre of an empire or kingdom.

Fortified homes or cities were built throughout Europe and the rest of the World for over three thousand years prior to that, although the first serious fortifications in Britain were constructed by the Romans during their 400 year occupation until the fifth Century.

After the Romans left the Border regions north of Hadrian’s Wall was the centre of  inter family kingdom feuding which was to continue for the next thousand years.

Until the Romans wood was the main material with which to build a defensive home, after their departure the abandoned stone garrisons etc. were plundered for the ready prepared building bricks.

Hence the earliest stone bastilles or peel towers are in the northern border regions, followed in the south of England after the Normans invaded in 1066. But still built as the capitol of a region from which to attack and plunder the neighbours and protect the occupants from attack.

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Edinburgh Castle    The Scottish Capital City  

Edinburgh Castle stands up high overlooking the city on the remnants of a volcano, the oldest structure of the castle was built by the Normans upon which each generation since has added their piece.

It is home to the Scottish Crown Jewels, the Stone of Destiny, the Scottish National War Memorial and Mons Meg, a giant 15th century siege gun. Each afternoon a cannon is fired at One O'Clock with military precision.

The Black Dinner was held at Edinburgh Castle, at which the Sixth Earl of Douglas was invited and murdered.

It’s role changed in 1603 with the Union of Crowns, when James VI of Scotland ascended to the English throne becoming James I and unifying the two countries and relocated the royal Court to London

Linlithgow Palace           Kigkgate, West Lothian  

Linlithgow Palace was the residence of the Stuart kings and the birthplace of James V and Mary Queen of Scots, located on the side of Linlithgow Loch between Edinburgh and Sterling.

The burgh of Linlithgow established in the 12th century by King David I, the first fortress was built by the English and King Edward I in the early 14th century but lost in after the battle of Bannockburn when it was used as a Royal Manor House.

The entire community including the manor house was raise in 1424 by a fire, after which King James I ordered the building of a new palace most of which still remains.

Subsequent Kings added and modified it till James VI, when in 1607 when the north face collapsed and was rebuilt in 1618.

In 1603 after the Union of Crowns between Scotland and England, James VI relocated the royal Court in London and never returned and the decay started. In 1746 General Hawley took refuge in the palace after his defeat in the battle of Falkirk, on leaving either deliberately or by accident the palace caught fire and was never occupied again.

Craigmillar Castle   near Edinburgh

King Robert II gave Craigmillar Burgh to Sir Simon Preston, whose family built and occupied the castle for nearly three centuries.

The original walls with rounded corner turrets overhung the foundations to allow burning oil to be dropped on assailants, in the 16th century an outer courtyard was formed with the building of an additional perimeter wall.

Mary Queen of Scots was staying at the castle in 1566 when a meeting of disgruntled noblemen discussed the removal of her husband Henry from the throne.

In 1660 David Preston sold Craigmillar to Sir John Gilmour who added a further residential wing before moving to Inch House nearby during the 1700’s, as it fell in disrepair a skeleton was found in a sealed vault in the walls.

Crichton Castle     Pathhead, Midlothian

Built by John de Crichton to the south of Edinburgh at the end of the 14th century with additions over the following 200 years during which the original third storey was removed.

In the 15th century William Crichton who held the office of Chancellor developed it in a residential home for a stately gentleman. He was present at the infamous Black Dinner at Edinburgh Castle, at which the Sixth Earl of Douglas was invited and murdered. In 1444 Sir John Corstorphine a friend of the earl of Douglas attack and destroyed the castle.

The Estates of the Crichton family were forfeited in 1484 for conspiracy against the King and given to Sir John Ramsey of Bothwell along with the post of Treasurer of Scotland, he later fled after the King was defeated at Sauchieburn in 1488 when it was passed to Sir Patrick Hepburn the first Earl of Bothwell.

The fourth Earl John who married Mary Queen of Scots, stole 4,000 Crowns from Elizabeth I en-route to help the Protestant Lords, in retaliation the Earl of Arran besieged and captured Crichton Castle. John who also owned Hailes Castle at East Linton fled to Norway

Dirleton Castle     North Berwick

The present Dirleton Castle replaced an earlier structure in the 13th century by John de Vaux built and was seized repeatedly during the 14th cross border conflict and taken over by the Halyburton family who rebuilt it during the 15th century.

Passing to the Ruthven family in the 16th century extra accommodation was added along with lavish gardens which are still maintained around the castle. The castle was attacked again during the Civil War after which it fell into disrepair, but the Guinness Book of Records claims it has longest herbaceous border in the world.

Tantallon Castle     North Berwick

Tantallon castle has an impressive red stone frontage and gatehouse tower 15m high and 3.5m thick, the rear being protected by high cliffs overlooking the Firth of Forth and Bass Rock. 

Built by William Douglas head of one of Scotland’s most powerful families in the 14th century until they feuded over ownership after James died at the Battle of Otterburn.

They also were in conflict with the Crown and was attack on numerous occasion and eventually taken in 1650 during the Civil war by General Monk, who caused extensive artillery damage with his canons after which the ruins were never rebuilt.

Hailes Castle           East Linton

Built in the 13th century by Hugo de Gourlay, Hailes Castle is the oldest remaining stone castles in Scotland. They lost it early in the 14th century to Sir Adam de Hepburn increased the fortification and internal comfort for himself, it remained in the family until 1567 when James Hepburn third husband of Mary Queen of Scots fled to Norway. 

Ownership passing of Hailes castle went to the Stewarts and eventually to the Dalrymples of Hailes abandoned the castle in 1700 and left it to decay.

Berwick Castle    North Northumberland Coastal Border Town

There are remains in Berwick of a Castle dating from the 12th century although the existing fortifications originate from the 16th century and later.

From 1296 when Edward I of England besieged the castle it changed hands many times before hostilities ceased between the two countries, possibly seeing more action than most being on the border and  the main crown prized by both sides.

The purpose-built Barracks now houses museums including "By Beat of Drum" which depicts the history of the British Army. The Borough Art Gallery and the Kings Own Scottish Borderers Regimental Museums are also within there.

The original stronghold was used to build more modern barracks, some was cleared in the 18th Century to make way for the railway station. Only the White Wall remains which drops from the rail line to the river banks below, adjacent to steep stairway known as Brakeneck Stairs.

Chillingham Castle     North Northumberland Coast

Chillingham is now a family home which had impressive fortifications built by Sir Thomas Grey in 1344 when he was given permission to defend his property. He erected a perimeter wall with four corner towers around his quadrangle and courtyard.

It was put to use by Sir Robert Ellerker who defended his property during the ‘Pilgrimage of Grace’ in 1536 and made extensive repairs after the canon bombardment. Further modifications were made in preparation for King James I of Scotland who stayed briefly en-route to his coronation in England.

Very little of the fortifications remains after extensive modifications in the 18th & 19th Centuries into a stately home in more peaceful times.

The entire Estate has a perimeter wall within which the rare Chillingham Castle have been protected from cross breading, privately owned the estate is open to visitors.

Norham Castle      Inland of Berwick upon Tweed

Norham Castle built in the 12th century by Bishop Ranulph Flambard of Durham, to command his northern most land and the important crossing point over the Tweed river.

It  was attacked on many occasions and captured by the Scots for a brief period in 1136, they returned two years later and destroyed it.

It’s strategic value lead to Henry II ordering that it be rebuilt in stone which the present Bishop did in the 1160s constructing a two tier tower with a cellar.

It’s location on the border attracted many Scottish invading armies to lay siege on Norham, for forty days in 1215 and in 1318 Robert the Bruce laid siege to the 12th century keep for a full year returning for seven months the following year.

It was thought impregnable until it captured in 1327 and relinquished the following year, it was again besieged in 1497 when before retreating the Scots had inflicted considerable damage with the then huge cannon called Mons Meg which is available to view in Edinburgh Castle.

It eventually fell due to cannon fire in 1513 when James IV of Scotland took it by storm, only to loose it and his life nearby in the Battle of Flodden.

It lost it’s strategic role in 1603 when James VI of Scotland ascended to the English throne becoming James I and unified the two countries

Harbottle Castle    North Northumberland

Located high up he Coquet valley in the Cheviot Hills the ruins of a 12th century motte and bailey castle are worth a visit to those who venture of the beaten track in the border hills.

Past Rothbury just before Alwinton Harbottle village is a quiet faming community, there is a car park just past the village from which one can visit the ruins and Drakes Stone  high on the hillside over looking the village.

Built for Henry II by Odinel d'Umfraville who was based in Prudhoe Castle on the river Tyne, Harbottle was strategic in protecting cross border trails and saw much action being captured by Robert the Bruce in 1318 and latterly owned by Henry VIII, after which it lost it's importance and by 1600's had fallen into disrepair.

To visit Castles in the Northumbrian Cheviot Hills - CLICK HERE

CLICK HERE - To visit Castles on the Northumbrian Coast

    

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